Showing posts with label Huron County. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Huron County. Show all posts

Like A Grindstone Cowboy

Near the tip of Michigan's "Thumb" lies Grindstone City, once famous as the world's leading exporter of grindstones. Today it looks more like a summer cottage community. The mills are long gone, but the legacy remains..."etched in stone," if you like.

This is one of those compelling places that is literally made out of itself; everywhere you look in town there is a grindstone, or a piece of one, as lawn ornaments, signs, parts of buildings, or just laying around. The beaches themselves are made up of old weathered and broken grindstones. It joins the ranks of other Michigan locales named after the mineral they became known for: Alabaster, Copper City, Calcite, Cement City, Iron County, Port Dolomite, Topaz, Hematite, Silver City, Clay Township, etc.


I never really paid Grindstone City much mind until one day I came across an old postcard image from "the beach at Grindstone City" which showed a bunch of 1970s people in gratuitous, full postcard color strolling along a beach that happened to be strewn with monolithic stacks of gigantic, ancient-looking grindstones spilling all over the place, apparently left behind when the mills closed up decades ago.

Obviously something that dramatic I had to go see. Unfortunately most of the big piles have walked away, but many still remain, embedded in the shoreline.


According to the Michigan County Atlas by David M. Brown, Territorial Governor Lewis Cass said during his 1820 expedition of Michigania that the Thumb area was not worth surveying. It was eventually surveyed anyway, and of course found to be rich in high grade timber.

NOTE: Mr. Brown wishes to clarify that Cass's claim that the land was "not worth surveying" actually referred to the area more immediately north of Detroit, now Oakland and Macomb County, and that the area north of Detroit was described in 1815 as a "swampy morass" by the first surveyor, Edward Tiffin.

Logging peaked here in the 1870s, and the barren, cutover wastelands of slashed boughs and dead stumps left behind were the perfect setting for a disaster. After a hot, dry summer, the cataclysmic Thumb Fire of 1881 swept over the entire region. Despite destroying and killing everything in its path, I suppose that it was a boon for the farming that was to follow upon the Thumb's rich soil.


Brown says that the discovery of workable sandstone here occurred in 1834, by accident. A vicious Lake Huron storm forced Captain Aaron Peer to shelter his schooner within reach of what is now Pointe Aux Barques, and that was when he spotted the quality stone. It is said that the Sanilac Petroglyphs were only discovered after the fire burned the forest cover away, so perhaps the Great Thumb Fire also aided the uncovering of more sandstone reserves as well?


Brown says that Captain Peer had some of the stone quarried, and it was brought back to Detroit in his ship, where it was allegedly used to pave the intersection at Woodward and Jefferson. An article from Michigan State University's Geology Department verifies this, and further notes that the paving project had been originally planned with Ohio flagstone, but in comparison to the Michigan product the Ohio stone was found inferior (as well it should be).


Some early buildings in the city of Port Huron were also built on foundations of Grindstone City sandstone. The first grinding wheel was made out of it in 1838, supposedly after the sailors aboard Captain Peer's ship decided the stone they were hauling as building material was also pretty good for sharpening stuff.  By 1850 Peer had a small water-powered mill here turning out 100 tons of grindstones annually, but the town did not get its famous name until 1870.


The book Michigan Yesterday & Today by Ferris Lewis says that this stone comes from the Marshall Sandstone geologic layer, so-named because it was first quarried there at the town of Marshall, near Battle Creek. It was later also quarried in Jackson County, but neither of these locales had the same fine consistency as Grindstone City's outcrop. The textbook Geology of Michigan by Dorr & Eschman seems to indicate that the Marshall layer formed during the Mississippian Period of the Paleozoic Era, over 300 million years ago.


This soft, unique Michigan stone was quarried in several places around Grindstone City, such as at the Eagle Bay Quarry, which today has filled up with water from being long abandoned. It is not found anywhere else in the world.


They are in all shapes and sizes. I am told that the larger, better stones were removed long ago for use as peoples' lawn ornaments. I imagine that the Wallace & Co. Mill probably disposed of damaged or imperfect stones by using them as riprap to reinforce the shoreline.


Grindstone City was known as the home of the world's highest quality grindstones for 100 years, and produced them in sizes from three pounds to 12,000lbs...up to seven feet across and a foot thick. The two grindstone companies that operated here employed a total of 800 workers, making them the biggest employer in Huron County.


Large docks once stretched over a half mile out into Lake Huron, where ships would take the stones to destinations as far away as Egypt, South Africa, Russia, Europe, and elsewhere. These docks were obliterated during the Great Lakes Hurricane of 1913, and from then on all grindstones were shipped by rail.

Grindstone City boasted two hotels, six stores, and a gristmill. Photographer Marty Hogan has a c.1950s postcard on his Flickr of the old Wallace & Company Grindstone Mill.


The grindstone quarrying operation generally began by clearing everything from grade level, including trees, soil, and any loose shale, until solid sandstone was found. The stone was then sectioned out into blocks by a steam-powered drill, split by wedges and hammers, and hoisted out to be transported to the mill by wagon. The grindstone companies eventually maintained their own narrow-guage railroad between quarry and mill.


There were two grades of grindstone, "heavy" and "light." The light stone was found near the top of the deposit, and was softer. The "heavy" was found deeper in the strata and had a denser grain as a result of the greater compacting geologic pressures exerted on it, which made it even better for fine honing.


The method of turning a block of stone into a round grinding wheel was accomplished at the mill via a primitive manual turning process that essentially performed the same operation as a lathe. First the porous stone would be soaked, because it was less prone to chipping when saturated with water. 


Next it was fastened to a drive shaft that was turned by a steam engine, and men with metal chisels would hand-tool the stone as it was spinning until it was uniform in shape. After they were finished the stones were dried so as to be lighter-weight for shipping. 

An adjacent mill turned out the whetstones and scythe stones, which were much smaller.


Some of these stones were in great condition still; almost as if they had been set here recently, and not decades ago.


Something about seeing a beach made out of these things with waves washing over them was striking and made me think of some lost ancient civilization like you'd see in Greece or somewhere, with shattered columns and temples crumbling into the sea. Very dramatic.


Captain Peer operated the quarries until about 1865, and eventually sold his interest. The quarries were then operated by Robert Wallace of Grindstone City, and Frank and E. L. Wallace of Detroit, under the name "Lake Huron Stone Co." according to "History of Grindstone City Area," by Mabel Cook.


I imagine a visitor to this place a thousand years from now might see these things sitting here and mistake them for primitive chariot wheels, or wheels for Flintstone cars, or for that giant stone money on that one Pacific island.


There is definitely something neolithic and primitive about their shape...


Lake Huron was a little bit cranky today, as it was mid-November:


In fact I was getting frozen stiff in the stinging autumn winds.


Sadly, with the coming of artificial carborundum whetstones around 1915, the natural grindstone business began to wane. This was simply because it was more labor-intensive to extract and shape grindstone than it was to make the cheaper carborundum, even though the real stuff was superior in quality. By 1929 the native Michigan product was obsolete. 


Brown says that in 1936 the last quarry here closed up, and the once bustling center of the grindstone industry at Michigan's "Thumbnail" fell from world prominence into ghost town status, the unsold inventory left laying abandoned on the beaches as an eternal reminder.


The MSU Geology Department's article said that the quarries were still worked on occasion when super-high quality hones were needed, as the carborundum just doesn't quite produce as fine an edge as the genuine article. The Grindstone City post office closed in 1972.



References:
Michigan County Atlas, Second Edition, by David M. Brown, p. 63
Michigan Yesterday & Today, by Ferris E. Lewis, p. 28, 390, & 550
Michigan, A History of the Wolverine State, 3rd Ed., Willis Dunbar & George May, p. 355
http://web2.geo.msu.edu/geogmich/grindstones.htm (extrapolates from History of Grindstone City New River and Eagle Bay, by Mabel Cook)

Thumbs Up

November, 2009.

As we were riding along through Michigan's "Thumb" after leaving Tyre Elevator, in a patch of woods I managed to pick out the form of this incredible old farmhouse through the trees:


It was situated almost exactly on the Sanilac / Huron County line.


Though gorgeously original looking, it seemed to be in the process of being sucked into the bowels of Hell in slow-motion.


Huron County was organized in 1859. It embraces the entire tip of Michigan's Thumb, and was set off from parts of older surrounding counties. The seat of Huron County is the famously named town of Bad Axe.


The name "Huron" comes from the French name for the Huron tribe of native Anishinaabe people, who were driven out of their homelands at the upper end of Georgian Bay in the 1640s by the Iroquois people, who in turn were driven out of their homelands in New York and Ontario by European settlers.

The Hurons fled to Michigan and eventually settled here. In their own language they refer to themselves as the Wyandot.




A classic Victorian-era Michigan farm house.





 



Another place of interest in Huron County for me was the ghost town of Port Crescent. Today its location is inside of a state park, and one of the only things that remains is this old trestle, which now just leads into some woods:


According to Larry Wakefield's Ghost Towns of Michigan, Volume 3, this town was originally named Pinnepog, after the river that it sat on. It was one of the first settlements in Huron County, having been founded in 1844 when the trader Walter Hume built a log cabin here, followed by a trading post and an inn. Hume was a Canadian "Free-Thinker" and was nearly shot by Canadian officials when he crossed the St. Clair River into America, according to the Michigan County Atlas, by David M. Brown (Hume's partner Wesley Armstrong lost an arm in the encounter, and later became sheriff of Huron County).

About a year later, another town was founded a few miles away on the same river, which also decided to call itself Pinnepog. In the early 1860s when both villages were ready to file for post offices, the Postal Service demanded that one of the towns change their name. The second Pinnepog was finally coerced into changing their name to "Pinnebog." The original Pinnepog still didn't like it, so they changed their name to Port Crescent, after the shape of their harbor on Lake Huron. Port Crescent prospered while Pinnebog never amounted to much.


Port Crescent had two sawmills, two dams, a gristmill, a cooperage, fisheries, and a brine well, according to Wakefield. Because of a shift in winds, it was spared destruction in the Thumb Fire of 1881. Some of Michigan's proudest lumber was milled here at Port Crescent, including one pine plank that was six feet wide. It was displayed at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. The pure white sands here were also once mined for glass making.


Unfortunately Port Crescent's days began to set with the turn of the 20th century, and by 1936 it was a complete ghost town. It was turned into a state park in 1960, which may have involved demolishing all of the buildings. Pinnebog however still exists today.

I made a cursory investigation of the surrounding forested dunes, and found no evidence of past civilizations:


Near a parking lot I did see this stub of a chimney ruin. It dated to 1872, and was part of the Pack Woods Sawmill:


Continuing along our way north to the tip of the Thumb, we arrived at the Port Austin Air Force Station. It was decommissioned in 1988, and I had heard it was potentially partially abandoned, so I figured it was worth a look:


As you can see by the Little Caesar's logo on the side of the building to the left, the repurposing of this facility was already underway. One of the radar domes used to sit on that cylindrical contraption to the right. We didn't see any opportunities for snooping, so we did a quick drive-through and left.

According to a declassified Air Force document, Port Austin AFS was put in commission in 1951, as a manual Aircraft Control and Warning Squadron of the central NORAD Region until 1959. The unit assigned to this station became known as the 754th Radar Squadron, whose job it was to guide intercepting aircraft to the location of intruding aircraft within its scope range. By 1960 it was converted to a long range radar station under the 34th Air Division headquartered at Battle Creek.


After 1965 it dove further into the alphabet soup bowl, and became part of the BIC, or Backup Intercept Control, a "computerized system of air defense" whereby it received radar and radio inputs from other LRRs, and "exercised operation control over assigned Fighter Intercept Squadrons within this region." Sounds high tech.

In 1968 this system was upgraded, which required the construction of a new building to house the newer, bigger super-computer that was needed to run this "larger computerized system of air defense," as well as the necessary operations consoles and programmers needed to run it. Beep boop beep!


Port Austin residents used to call this installation "The Hill," according to one source. The 1971 article states that at that time the 754th Radar was one of five remaining units within the Aerospace Defense Command that was still using the search radar system. Since it was located in such a remote area it had to be self-sufficient in several respects; it had its own battery of generators, and its own sewage treatment plant. The station's population at that time was 280 airmen and their families, and their number made up 25% of Port Austin's permanent year-round population. 


It started to get dark, so we began the long drive home. On the way we had just enough daylight left to see this old masterpiece in Kilmanagh. Judging by the name, I'd guess that it was settled by some Irishmen.


Google Books turns up a few references to it as a dairy farming town in the annual reports of the Michigan Dairy and Food Commission in the early 1900s. There were also several entries for "Kilmanagh Cheese Factory" in towns like Linkville, Pigeon, and Sebawaing.


The book Michigan Place Names, by Walter Romig says that the town's original name was Thompson's Corners, after Francis Thompson who came here from Ireland in 1861 to homestead. He became the town's first postmaster in 1873, and according to Romig, the post office shut down in 1904.


Thompson eventually renamed the town Kilmanagh after a place in County Kilkenny, Ireland, because I suppose the Shebeon Creek here reminded him of one in his native land that overflowed each spring.


References:
http://www.radomes.org/museum/showsite.php?site=Port+Austin+AFS,+MI
Michigan Place Names, by Walter Romig, p. 304
Ghost Towns of Michigan, Vol. 3, by Larry Wakefield, p. 129
http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~mihuron/
Atlas of Michigan, by Lawrence M. Sommers, p. 118
Michigan County Atlas, by David M. Brown, p. 183